|
Even though Norway rats are strong swimmers most rats dislike being bathed. They usually learn to tolerate it once they realize you aren’t trying to drown them; but it still amounts to “force-grooming” which they are likely to interpret as aggressive behaviour, so it’s not a thing which should be done unnecessarily.
Rats should be bathed under the following sort of circumstances:
|
|
|
|
Scabs in the coat can be due to a wide variety of causes, including fungal or mite infections (see section on infection), too much protein in the diet, allergy, or cutting themselves with their own claws and not noticing (most rats don't have very sensitive skins). Trim the points off the hind claws if they seem very long and/or sharp (being careful not to cut right down to the quick - the pink line of vein inside the claw), and then work through the other causes by process of elimination, i.e. if it doesn't respond to treatment for mites or ringworm try reducing the amount of protein in the diet, changing the bedding etc..
|
|
Some rats have a behavioural problem called "barbering", in which they chew holes in their own and/or their cagemates' fur. Shaving their own forearms is favourite. This is harmless but it ruins the coat for display purposes: the behaviour is inherited, so if you are thinking of showing your rats you should never breed from a barber.
|
|
Elderly rats often develop bald spots on the back - see care of the geriatric rat. Rexes are liable to lose most of the coat off their back in late middle age.
All rats have loose skin (a great boon when closing the incision after operations), but it's only when their fur starts to thin that you can see that, while some rats are just a bit baggy, others are covered in corrugated rolls and folds and look like a pink concertina.
|
|
Hairless rats (which are not kept in the UK) can develop sore patches in the folds of their skin and need to be lubricated with a little baby-talc or similar.
|