Exmoor Gullies.

1. This page is being constructed and is not suitable as a guide. Please refer to guide books. Coastal Climbs in N. Devon, C. Archer.

 

2.  All routes are in the process of being climbed. Some of the details below were obtained many years ago and due to erosion may no longer be accurate. Updates will be published early 2006 if we have a dry winter. Some routes can be downloaded from the files folder on the Exmoor Coast Group site. http://uk.groups.yahoo.com/group/exmoorcoast.

 

3. Grid references indicate the base of the gully or a point on the beach immediately below the gully.

 

4. The height indicates the contour at the exit from the gully. This may not be the top of the cliff.

 

5. The average angle is shown. This may include vertical steps.

 

6. The Exmoor cliffs are convex. You cannot see the bottom from the top. This makes route finding down to the beach very difficult, usually involving the use of a rope and often more hazardous than climbing the gully. Don’t try to find a way down without prior knowledge. To do so will more than likely result in a wasted day or more serious consequences.

 

7. The Exmoor Coast has the second highest tidal range in the world. Do not get caught out on the beach or within 40ft of it. If you must go down there then choose the low water of spring tides. Consult a tide table.

 

8. The grades shown relate to the English scrambling grades plus climbing grades where rock climbing has to be performed at a standard above that normally experienced by scramblers. This does not mean that scramblers cannot climb the gully, but should do so in the company of a competent climber who has personal knowledge of their ability on rock and is able to judge how they are coping with the difficulties.

 

9. Take a rope, helmet, axe and equipment that you would normally take on a mountain route. Being cut off by the tide or benighted is a possibility especially during the winter months. Mobile phone coverage is sporadic.

 

1. Little Hangman Gut. GR. SS 58723 48211.

Grade. 1.

Exit contour. 195m.

Length. 919ft. 280m

Av Angle. 44 degrees.

Last known ascent 21.10.07. 45ft of scree to foot of the gully. The entry into the gully can change from a gentle scree slope into a 25ft wet rock wall, which increases the grade. This is caused by rainfall increasing the flow down the gully and washing away the scree slope. It does repair slowly. Halfway up is an 8 to 10ft rock step with a small cave underneath. Here the water enters the gully down the east wall. Above the rock step the route is dry and much easier on grass. To finish there is an exit path out left to the slopes or you can finish direct up steep grass to the wooden railings.

 

 

2. Miners Gully. GR. SS 597483.

Grade. 3 (S)

Exit contour. 235m

Length. 1017ft. 310m

Av Angle. 50 degrees.

No recorded ascent. Not led, top roped. Steep steps and very wet. Deep heather at top.

  

 

Miners Gully.

 

3. Great Hangman Gut. GR. SS 60139 48459.

Grade. 1

Exit contour. 240m.

Length. 1280ft. 390m.

Av Angle. 39 degrees.

Last known ascent 02.03.06. At this time the first 75ft of red shale was a little loose but not serious. Stake on left side in turf at about 150ft. Shallow rock spike belay on top of large boulder at 210ft. Steep walk thereafter.

  

 

4. Notch Gully. GR. SS 63083 48488.

Grade. 4a VS.

Exit contour. 140m.

Length. 690ft. 210m.

Av Angle. 43 degrees.

First ascent 05.08.07. A short 20ft rock climb about 5m left of the waterfall brings you up onto steep grass and the shallow grass and scree gully leading up to the main feature. There are five rock steps from the beach, 20ft 4ft 15ft 65ft and 12ft. It is a serious rock climb, not a scramble. 05.08.07 there was water running down all the rock steps. The 65ft step is in poor condition. There is a stake at its foot but for the remainder of its length there is little reliable protection. Loose material is continually washed down from above and rests on the holds. There is little shelter from debris kicked down by the leader, there is barely enough room for two to hide beside the stake. A challenging but dangerous route. Allow 7 ½ hrs round trip for a party of 3. We used The Hidden Gully for the descent. Inspection of the 65ft step before the attempt recommended.

 

Notch Gully.

 

5. Hidden Gully. GR. SS 63223 48497.

Grade 2.

Exit contour. 110m.

Length. 530ft. 161m.

Av Angle. 37 degrees.

Last visited 05.08.07. In good condition. Scramble 155ft up the rock debris to the foot of the twin waterfall. Turn left and follow the gully up under the trees for 375ft to the neck of Neck Wood. Walk up through the wood out onto the slope and the coastpath.

 

 

6. Neck Wood Gut. GR. SS 63326 48560. 

Grade. 3 (S)

Exit contour. 180m.

Length. 1020ft. 310m.

Av Angle. 40 degrees.

First ascent 18.02.06. A very serious and in its present state dangerous gully. At 520ft there is a 4ft step of large stones cemented together with red soil. The leader may survive pulling these out but those at the previous stance 120ft below are vulnerable.

 

 

    

             5. Hidden Gully               6.  Neckwood Gut. 31.01.06                        Neckwood Gut                                 

 

7. North Cleave Gut.  GR. SS 636485.

Grade.

Exit contour. 110m.

Length. 492ft. 150m.

Av Angle. 48 degrees.

No recorded ascent. Very steep and wet. The gully contains two vertical waterfalls.

          

 

 

 

8. Bosley Gut. GR. SS 639486.

Grade. 1.

Exit contour. 220m

Length. 1115ft. 340m.

Av Angle. 40 degrees.

Last ascent 12th Aug 2006.

 

9. Coxcomb West. GR. SS 643490.

Grade. 3 (S)

Exit contour. 100m

Length. 460ft.140m

Av Angle. 45 degrees.

The continuation up the ridge and cliff above is an easy scramble of a further 460ft at 45 degrees. Deep heather near the top.

 

Bosley Gut.                                                             Coxcombe West.

 

10. Tuesday Route. GR. SS 650495.

Grade. 2.

Exit contour. 150m.

Length. 689ft. 210m.

Av Angle. 42 degrees.

Bottom is loose red shale. Easy thereafter. Head towards the pointed feature of Peter’s Rock, top left.

 

 

 

11. Great Red Gully. GR SS 74714 50457.

Grade. 2.

Exit contour. 240m.

Length. 1246ft. 380m.

Av angle. 36 degrees.

Allow 3 hours from and back to the car for a party of two. In its present condition this is not a route for a large party. Helmets, rope and axe are highly recommended. Keep tightly together to avoid dislodging rocks onto those below.

 

12. Coddow Slip. GR. SS 74795 50621.

Grade. 3.S.

Exit contour. 200m.

Length. 950ft. 290m.

Av Angle. 44 degrees.

Starts at the foot of a landslip of large boulders.

Climb the boulder slope to the right hand corner into the gully proper.

The gully is now a clean V shape with escape up the steep grass slope to the left and onto the ridge.

At the next right turn the floor becomes clean rock for about 35ft topped by a 5ft rock step. At this point the sides of the gully are steep and the route becomes serious on steep shale and grass.

Continue up steep grass bearing left up to a metal stake. Climb up left from the stake to the top. Unfortunately someone has decided to test the stake and bent it to an angle where it cannot be removed leaving an eyesore.

 

 

 

13. Whitebeam Gully. GR SS 77458 50124

Grade. 3 (S) + H.Severe climbing grade on steps. Grade 2 from the top of the gully to the footpath.

Exit contour. 110m, the path is on the 160m contour.

Length. 525ft. 160m. +  further 225ft. 68m to path. Total = 750ft. 228m.

Av angle. 43 degrees.

Three rock steps. The first two (sometimes damp) have to be climbed at H.Severe grade. Take a size 10 or 11 hex for the second step.The third one (right) is best  passed on the slope to its left (east) side. 

This is a very remote location. If walking in from the A39 allow for a round trip of 7hrs for a group of three.

 

 

                                                                                                                                              The top slab

 

 

The first rock step.                                 The second rock step.

 

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