Exmoor Gullys.

1. This page is being constructed and is not suitable as a guide. Please refer to guide books. Coastal Climbs in N. Devon, C. Archer.

 

2.Much of the Exmoor Coastline is vegetated. The density of the undergrowth varies with the seasons. This with erosion makes access and escape uncertain as well as altering the line of the route within the gully with changes to the grade.

 

3. Grid references indicate the base of the gully or a point on the beach immediately below the gully.

 

4. The height indicates the contour at the exit from the gully. This may not be the top of the cliff.

 

5. The average angle is shown. This may include vertical steps.

 

6. The Exmoor cliffs are convex. You cannot see the bottom from the top. This makes route finding down to the beach very difficult, usually involving the use of a rope and often more hazardous than climbing the gully. Donít try to find a way down without prior knowledge. To do so will more than likely result in a wasted day or more serious consequences.

 

7. The Exmoor Coast has the second highest tidal range in the world. Do not get caught out on the beach or within 40ft of it. If you must go down there then choose the low water of spring tides. Consult a tide table.

 

8. The grades shown relate to the English scrambling grades plus climbing grades where rock climbing has to be performed at a standard above that normally experienced by scramblers. This does not mean that scramblers cannot climb the gully, but should do so in the company of a competent climber who has personal knowledge of their ability on rock and is able to judge how they are coping with the difficulties.

 

9. Take a rope, helmet, axe and equipment that you would normally take on a mountain route. Being cut off by the tide or benighted is a possibility especially during the winter months. Mobile phone coverage is sporadic.

 

1. Little Hangman Gut. GR. SS 58723 48211.

Grade. 2

Exit contour. 195m.

Length. 919ft. 280m

Av Angle. 44 degrees.

Last climbed 21.10.07.45ft of scree to foot of the first rock step. Depending on the amount of scree the step may not exist or could be a 25ft waterfall covered in weed in which case it will be grade 3. We walked into the base of the gully from YesTor at half tide. Wait for a dry period.

 

 

2. Miners Gully. GR. SS 597483.

Grade. 3 (S)

Exit contour. 235m

Length. 1017ft. 310m

Av Angle. 50 degrees.

No recorded ascent. Not led, top roped. Steep steps and very wet. Deep heather at top.

†††††††††††††††

 

††††††††††††††††††††††††††

 

 

3. Great Hangman Gut. GR. SS 601484.

Grade. 3

Exit contour. 240m.

Length. 1279ft. 390m.

Av Angle. 39 degrees.

First 45m is loose, steep and changeable red shale, grade 2 thereafter.

 

 

 

4. Notch Gully. GR. SS 630485.

Grade. 4. (VS 4a)

Exit contour. 140m.

Length. 690ft. 210m.

Av Angle. 43 degrees.

Last climbed 05.08.07. Allow 8 hours round trip for a group of three. Loose rock with poor protection in the groove make this a very dangerous undertaking. There is barely enough shelter for two from falling rock kicked off by the leader. We entered the initial shallow gully by climbing 5m left of the waterfall. There are then steps of 4 and 15ft followed by the crux, a steep 65ft groove in poor condition. This is followed by 12 and 5ft steps.

 

††††††††††††††† ††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††

 

5. Hidden Gully. GR. SS 632484.

Grade 2.

Exit contour. 110m.

Length. 623ft. 190m.

Av Angle. 37 degrees.

Last visited 05.08.07. Start can be wet. Once inside the gully turn left up an earth / scree slope. Use trees for protection.

 

 

6. Neck Wood Gut. GR. SS 633485.

Grade. 3.

Exit contour. 180m.

Length. 1020ft. 310m.

Av Angle. 40 degrees.

Last climbed 18.02.06. A caving ladder was used to enter this gully during the 1960ís. Recently a slip has deposited debris at the foot of the feature providingan easy start. A 4ft step consisting of large boulders cemented together with soft red earth at about 520ft presents a dangerous obstacle. We passed it on the left side.

 

††††

 

†††††††††††††††††††† †††††††

 

7. North Cleave Gut.GR. SS 636485.

Grade. ?

Exit contour. 110m.

Length. 492ft. 150m.

Av Angle. 48 degrees.

No recorded ascent. Very steep and wet. The waterfall has an estimated length of 300ft.

 

 

8. Bosley Gut. GR. SS 639486.

Grade. 1.

Exit contour. 220m

Length. 1115ft. 340m.

Av Angle. 40 degrees.

Descended 18.02.07. Care required handling the large boulders in the first 100ft. No real obstacles thereafter.

 

 

9. Coxcomb West. GR. SS 643490.

Grade. 3 (S)

Exit contour. 100m

Length. 460ft.140m

Av Angle. 45 degrees.

Not visited recently. The continuation up the ridge and cliff above is an easy scramble of a further 460ft at 45 degrees. Deep heather near the top.

 

†††††† †††††††††††††††††††

 

 

10. Tuesday Route. GR. SS 650495.

Grade. 2.

Exit contour. 150m.

Length. 689ft. 210m.

Av Angle. 42 degrees.

Not climbed recently. Bottom is loose changeable red shale. Easy thereafter. Head towards the pointed feature of Peterís Rock, top left.

†††††††††† ††††

 

 

11. Great Red Gully. GR SS 74714 50457.

Grade. 2.

Exit contour. 240m.

Length. 1246ft. 380m.

Av angle. 36 degrees.

Last climbed 01.12.05. Allow 3 hours from and back to the car for a party of two. In its present condition this is not a route for a large party. Helmets, rope and axe are highly recommended. Keep tightly together to avoid dislodging rocks onto those below.

 

 

12. Coddow Slip. GR. SS 748506.

Grade. 2.

Exit contour. 200m.

Length. 950ft. 290m.

Av Angle. 44 degrees.

Last climbed 08.10.06. Starts at the foot of a landslip of large boulders.

Climb the boulder slope to the right hand corner into the gully proper.

The gully is now a clean V shape with escape up the steep grass slope to the left and onto the ridge.

At the next right turn the floor becomes clean rock for about 35ft topped by a 6ft rock step. At this point the sides of the gully are steep.

Continue up steep grass bearing left up to a metal stake. Climb up left from the stake to the top. Unfortunately someone has decided to test the stake and bent it to an angle where it cannot be removed leaving an eyesore.

 

 

 

 

13. Whitebeam Gully. GR SS 77458 50124

Grade. 3 (S) + (VS 4b) climbing grade on steps. Grade 2 from the top of the gully to the footpath.

Exit contour. 110m, the path is on the 160m contour.

Length. 525ft. 160m. +further 225ft. 68m to path. Total = 750ft. 228m.

Av angle. 43 degrees.

Last climbed 01.04.07. Three rock steps. The first two (sometimes damp) have to be climbed at 4b tech grade. Take a size 10 or 11 hex for the

second step (VS). The third one, forming the large headwall can be bypassed on the left side, or climb the slab until you want to exit left.

This is a very remote location. If walking in from the A39 allow for a round trip of 7hrs for a group of three.

†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††† The first rock step.

 

The second rock step††††††††††††††††††††††††††††† ††††††††††††††The top slab

 

14. Henners Hill West. GR. SS 910492

Grade. 2

Exit Contour. 150m

Length. 1148ft. 350m

Av Angle. 40 degrees.

Last climbed 10.01.08. Follow the watercourse until it enters the gully from the right. (2nd photo) Continue ahead up the shallow gully to belay at the outcrop on the right. Move back out into the gully and continue up steep red shale, then move left to the steep and narrow gully (4th photo) Continue moving left under the cliff until under the highest point then direct to the top.

 

††††

 

15. Henners Hill. GR. SS 912492

Grade. 3

Exit Contour. 150m

Length. 656ft. 200m

Av Angle. 45 degrees.

Last climbed 11.11.07. The initial 150ft is very loose, unprotected and dangerous. Thereafter this is a grade 1 scramble. Follow the line of the shallow gully up the hill bypassing the buttress then direct to the top. The buttress has been climbed by mounting the large ledge and moving to the right side where it is possible to climb in an exposed situation on large holds. Protection in the cracks. The final move from the large ledge up onto the hillside requires a long reach with an axe.

 

16. Grexy Combe. GR. SS 940486

Grade. 1.

Exit Contour. 80m

Length. 689ft. 210m

Av Angle. 20 degrees.

Last climbed 27.04.08. Enter the watercourse while trying to keep the feet dry. Climb the greasy waterslide with the aid of a fallen tree (2nd photo) About 200m upstream is a 12 / 15ft waterfall. We climbed this on the right then moved back left in an horizontal fashion with the left ear almost in the water before pulling out over the lip of the fall. It is possible to escape out of the combe by climbing the steep left (east) bank to the fence line which can be followed to the top of the hill.

 

Back to Exmoor Coast Climbing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

†††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††